Used car checklist: what to check at a viewing
The checks that catch most problems, in the order you'd do them. Print it or keep it open on your phone.
Before you go
- History check (Cartell / Motorcheck). Run the reg before you travel: write-off, finance owing, mileage history, number of owners, UK import. If this fails, walk away.
- Ask on the phone. Use the call script on the car's page: questions for this car, and whether the answers make the trip worth it.
Paperwork
- Logbook (VLC) matches the seller. Name and address on the logbook match the seller and where you are. Reg and chassis number match the car (base of windscreen). If this fails, walk away.
- NCT cert & mileage. NCT disc and cert dates match. The mileage on old NCT certs only goes up and fits the odometer. If this fails, walk away.
- Service history & receipts. Stamps or receipts for oil changes; timing belt receipt if it's due. Two keys?
Walk around
- Paint & panel gaps. Look along each side in daylight: mismatched colour, uneven gaps or overspray on rubbers means crash repair. (typically €150 to fix)
- Rust: sills, arches, under the doors. Kneel down and look at the sills, wheel arches and door bottoms. Press bubbles gently. (typically €150 to fix)
- Tyres. At least 1.6 mm tread (3 mm to be safe), no cracks or bulges, same brand on each axle. Uneven wear = tracking/suspension. (typically €140 to fix)
- All lights & glass. Headlights (cloudy?), indicators, brake lights (ask the seller to press), reverse light. Windscreen chips in the driver's view fail the NCT. (typically €40 to fix)
Cold start & engine bay
- Start it from cold yourself. Feel the bonnet first: warm means they've pre-heated it to hide problems. Listen for rattles, look for smoke (blue = oil, white = coolant, black = diesel fuelling). (typically €300 to fix)
- Warning lights. With the key at ignition, all lights come on, then go off once running. Engine, ABS, airbag lights staying on = fault (and NCT fail for ABS/airbag). (typically €120 to fix)
- Oil & coolant. Dipstick: between min/max, not black sludge. Oil cap: no white 'mayonnaise'. Coolant at the line and the right colour, no oil in it. (typically €150 to fix)
- Leaks & hoses. Look under the car and around the engine for drips or wet patches. Squeeze rubber hoses: no cracks. (typically €80 to fix)
Inside
- Damp & smells. Press the carpets and look in the boot under the floor. Damp or mould = leaking seals/sunroof. (typically €60 to fix)
- Electrics, heater & A/C. Every window, mirror, central locking, wipers, horn, heater (hot), fans on all speeds, A/C (cold). (typically €80 to fix)
- Wear matches the mileage. A worn steering wheel, pedals and seat bolster on a 'low mileage' car is a warning sign.
Test drive
- Clutch & gears. Clutch bites in the middle (high = worn). In 4th at low revs, floor it: revs rising without speed = slipping. All gears go in smoothly, no crunching. (typically €600 to fix)
- Brakes. Brake firmly in a straight line: no pulling, juddering or grinding. Handbrake holds on a hill. (typically €150 to fix)
- Steering & suspension. Over bumps: knocks or clunks? Car pulls to one side? Full lock both ways slowly: clicking = CV joint. (typically €150 to fix)
- Engine pulls well. Smooth acceleration, no hesitation, flat spots or limp mode. No whistling (turbo) or smoke behind you. (typically €300 to fix)
After the drive
- After the drive. Leave it idling: temperature stays in the middle, the fan cuts in, no new smells, drips or warning lights. (typically €150 to fix)
Looking at a particular model? Its buying guide lists the weak spots to add to this list.